ribbon cake does boston!

did you miss me? i'm sure you were wondering where i went. after introducing you to my blog and teasing you with multiple entries, i disappeared and didn't write a new post for days and days. it was cruel, and i'm sorry. you have to know that i wouldn't have left if it wasn't for a good reason; that reason, is Boston.

Boston is to food lovers what paris is to fashionistas, or at least it should be. before i moved there, i always associated Boston with seafood but after living there and getting to know the city's many culinary nooks and crannies, i now know that it is home to a variety of exquisite foods including amazingly fresh seafood, artisinal breads and cheeses, and the best cannolis this side of the Atlantic (not to mention some really cool beers). on my last trip to beantown, i made it a point to eat at all of my most favourite places in the city and to scope out the eateries that have been garnering attention from the boston globe. lucky for you, i took my camera with me...


first stop, Genki Ya. if i still lived in Boston, i would eat here at least once a week. after months of trying to find the best all around sushi restaurant in Boston, mike and i landed in this jewel. boasting its use of organic ingredients, Genki Ya lures you in with its bright green sign and bamboo adorned windows. what's more, the menu is enormous. not only can you get the basics like everyone's favourite spicy tuna roll and the classic california roll, you can get dozens of other unique creations such as the scorpion roll, the crazy roll and the king salmon torch roll, all with fun additions like flying fish roe, shrimp tempura, yam tempura and real lump crab meat. and did i mention that you can get your sushi made with white, multigrain or brown rice? well, you can, and i go for the brown rice quite often.









now, it's no secret that Boston is an expensive city and a place offering organic food could certainly charge more than a pretty penny and still have a large following. however, as far as boston goes, the prices are more than reasonable. the lunch specials, offered between 11 and 3 everyday, includes the option of a 2 roll, soup, salad and dessert combo for only $9. $12 will get you one more roll. my favourite? the 2 roll special with the heartiest, most buttery yellowtail and indulgent king salmon.






mike got the crazy roll...

next on the list: a trip to Little Italy. hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Hanover Street, Ernesto's Pizzeria is the definition of a hidden gem. this Salem Street, family owned and operated eatery is one of my boston top 5.

do not let the unassuming exterior fool you. although it is tiny and seats only about 20 people at a time, Ernesto's is probably the second best pizza experience i have ever had (i'm sorry but nothing beats the one i had in Rome). $3.50 buys you a slice (which is actually about 1/4 of an entire pie) of cheese pizza.

best pizza in Boston? try best pizza in North America. this slice will literally melt in your mouth. the crust is impossibly thin and the rich, flavourful sauce seems as though it is painted on leaving plenty of room for a generous dusting of freshly grated cheese. what's great about this pizza is that it will not leave you feeling full, only satisfied. i just can't get over how good it is. and while you wait, mouth watering, for your pizza to come out of the oven, the photos on the wall will keep you entertained. the place is decorated with posters and pictures of the Rat Pack, Sophia Lauren and of course, the Boston Celtics. the reason behind these pictures is never made clear, but it really is an interesting experience, savouring the taste of this amazing pizza with a mug shot of old blue eyes hanging over you.

of course, a trip to the north end wouldn't be complete without a visit to....

sure, there is debate among Bostonians, Italians and everyone in between about the authenticity of Mike's. Mike's Pastry, famed for its specialties like pannetone, lobster tails and ricotta pie, is one of the most talked about places in Boston's Little Italy. on any given day, there are line ups outside the door and winding down the north end's tiny side streets. at first, i didn't want to give into the hype. there are so many bakeries in the north end, why should i go to the most popular one which clearly doesn't need my business? but folks, i have tried the rest and have settled on the best. owned by Mike and Annette Mercogliano, Mike's is certainly Italian, even though many of the servers here are Albanian. if you manage to get there on say, a Monday morning, you might beat the crowds and have a quiet, stress free experience, but it's almost more fun to go on a busy Sunday when the place is packed and it's standing room only. no matter when you go, you will be greeted by a friendly server, dressed in a cute, blue Mike's apron. there are so many things to choose from here, but if you have to get one thing, go with the florentine cannoli. the ricotta filling just can't be beat. it's sweet and thick with just a tiny hint of tangy-ness. and the florentine shell is the perfect compliment to the dense, creamy filling - buttery, crispy, crunchy and sweet. order a few for the road and your server will dust them with icing sugar, pack them up, and tie the box closed with the signature blue and white thread which hangs from the ceiling. or, eat your cannoli on the spot at one of the little tables in the front of the cafe. i suggest washing it down with some bitter espresso. so, what does this cannoli look like? you ask. well, i was too greedy and i ate my sweet treat before anyone had time to take a snapshot of it! you'll just have to go there and get one yourself :o)

and...


if you're in the north end on a friday or a saturday, DO NOT miss a chance to hit up haymarket. i love, love, love farmer's market but have never before seen better deals on fresh produce and seafood than i do here. all i'm saying is that i got the most beautiful raspberries here last summer - 12 1/2 pint containers for $3! i'm not kidding! and last weeked i got 2lbs of fresh Atlantic salmon for $6! and 3lbs of grapes for $1! you will not be disappointed if you go here. go! shop! eat!


so now i've probably made it seem like the north end is the only place to eat in boston; while it is pretty amazing, there are dozens of other places that warrant some attention. i first read about Burdick Chocolate in the Boston Globe. the shop was featured in an article about the best hot chocolate in Boston. to be honest, i didn't go looking for the place, i just happened to notice it, happily sitting across from the Upper Crust, another Boston pizza favourite, up in Harvard Square.





while it's evident from the cafe menu that Burdick focuses on its truly rich and decadent hot chocolate, it also serves up some amazing specialty chocolates which you can check out on the website. when i went there it was too early for chocolate for me, but since it's never too early for butter, i was willing to indulge in a french macaron - a pistachio macaron sandwiched with buttercream to be exact.




there are so many other places that i love to eat at in this city, but sadly, my stomach and my wallet did not allow me to visit all of them this time. however, i would like to introduce you to some more of my favourites. here is a sampling from my list of the best places to eat in the city that stole my heart:


The Mission, one of my other Boston top 5's, mainly because it's in my old neighbourhood and home to many, many, many good memories - get the fish and chips and wash it down with a pomegranite champtini.


Penguin Pizza, also on Mission Hill - get the thin crust, arugula-basil pesto pizza with fresh mozarella and roasted garlic.


Flour Bakery and Cafe, located blocks from my old school and very good at providing sustenance for 3-hour long evening lectures - get a big sticky bun and a mellow cup of joe.


Blunch, also close to my old school and just such a great play on words - Mike says to get The Loaf sandwich (yup, you guessed it, a hearty and dense meatloaf sandwich).


Petit Robert Bistro, for excellent customer service and some really rich, delectable French food - get the crab cake salad with curried mustard dressing to start, then follow it up with the pan seared scallops with a Kir Royale chaser!


Addis Red Sea, for authentic Ethiopian food, served on injera bread on short, wicker tables - get the yesmir wot, lentils simmered in a spicy 'berbere' sauce which is perfect for light, airy injera bread dipping.


Clear Flower Bakery, because my friend, Rich, raves about it just about every time i see him. i have never been here, but i'm assuming it's amazing, because Rich is picky and he certainly doesn't rave about every bakery in town.


Shawarma King, as good as it gets for being a typical, run of the mill, university student-going shawarma place - get the falafel sandwich, spicy (although they do have an excellent selection of other authentic Lebanese specialties).


and last but ABSOLUTELY not least...


LTK, go here! land at Boston Logan International Airport and go directly to LTK. do not pass Go; do not collect $200; go directly to LTK and get the tuna burger. just get it, and devour it. it is the best thing.

real bread

we all know about my ups and downs with bread, but this is actually going to be a bread success story. i first saw this recipe on Chef at Home with Chef Michael Smith. i didn't catch the first part of the show, but i saw him baking a loaf of bread in a covered pot that he had pre-heated in the oven. i was intrigued. weeks later when i was searching for bread recipes online, i remembered the unusual baking method that Michael Smith had used and decided to look up his recipe. i found it on his website, and as i read through it, i was transported to a world that i never knew existed - the world of kneadless bread baking.

the no-knead method of bread baking has been building momentum slowly and steadily over the past few years. the recipe is founded on the principles of time and gentle patience, not the typical rules of precision and good old fashioned elbow grease that plague most bread recipes. using 4 simple ingredients, barely any physical effort and absolutely no babysitting, anyone, even a child, can create a rich, complex, airy and flavourful loaf of bread - all you really need is time.

to be honest, i like the process of kneading bread. that's actually one of the best parts about making bread in my opinion. whether you use it to get rid of the days frustrations or to give your arms a work-out, there is something very enjoyable, purposeful even, about kneading dough. this recipe is touted because it requires no kneading. i mean, look it up on the internet and you will find dozens upon dozens of comments from people ecstatic because they no longer have to spend time kneading. others rejoice bcause they no longer have to worry about buying an expensive KitchenAid mixer or bread machine which would knead the dough for them. after trying this recipe twice, i have to admit that i am a huge fan, but not because of the lack of kneading. this recipe is fool proof. not only is it simple, its results are pure perfection. letting this dough rise twice, first for 12-18 hours, then for another 2-3, really allows the yeast to develop and grow which results in a very distinct and deep flavour. baking the bread in a pre-heated, covered pot creates a thick, crunchy yet chewy crust that is a joy to eat, especially right out of the oven. i encourage you to read Michael Smith's own musings on this bread recipe so that you can really learn the theory behind it. Mark Bittman of the New York Times also provides a good summary of no-kneading in this article.

in the end, this recipe is a very basic one but it is one worth trying, even for those of you who take pleasure in the traditional method of bread-baking, like me. i guarantee that your loaf of bread will look and taste beautiful; also, this recipe is very forgiving, so you can easily make additions/alterations as you please (i added sunflower seeds and flax seeds). seriously. try this recipe. you will impress yourself, and your friends and family will heap praises upon you.

Real Bread (recipe adapted from Chef Michael Smith)

2 cups of all-purpose or bread flour

1 cup of whole wheat flour
1/2 cup of any creative addition of your choice (i added 1 tablespoon of sunflower seeds, 2 tablespoons of flax seeds and 5 tablespoons of rye flakes)
1/4 teaspoon of dry yeast
1 1/4 teaspoons of salt
1 1/2 cups of warm water

whisk the dry ingredients together thoroughly. add the water and stir until a wet dough forms. continue stirring until the dough incorporates all the loose flour in the bowl, about 60 seconds in total. cover the bowl with a towel and rest in a warm place for 12 to 18 hours. it will double in size, bubble and long gluten strands will form. lightly flour your hands and the work surface then remove the dough from the bowl. quickly form it into a ball. thoroughly (VERY thoroughly) flour a cotton towel and rest the dough on it. cover it with another floured cotton towel. you may also rest the dough on a non-stick ‘Silpat’ mat and cover it with just one towel. rest the dough a second time. in 2 to 3 hours it will rise again and double in size once more.

a half an hour or so before the dough is ready preheat your oven to 450 degree with a heavy covered pot in it. you may use cast-iron, steel, enamel or ceramic. when the dough has fully risen slide your hand under the towel and quickly invert the delicate dough into the hot pot. shake the pot a bit to settle it then place the lid on the pot and start baking. bake for 30 minutes with the lid then remove it and bake for 15 minutes more.

when you start to get creative and add heavier ingredients like whole wheat flour and different seeds and nuts, you need to help the dough along a little by giving it a bit more time in the oven. you certainly don't want to dry the dough out, but when i baked this particular loaf, i noticed that it was still a bit dense in the middle and could have benefitted from a few more minutes of baking time. it was still amazing, but don't be afraid to stray from the cooking times that recipes often provide. so many factors, the size of your oven, the humidity, play a role in the exact amount of time it takes for something to cook. you can also make this recipe in a traditional loaf pan. this will yield a thinner, crisper crust but it will still taste great. to get the thick crust without baking it in a covered pot, place a shallow baking dish on the oven rack below the one you are baking the loaf on. throw 3 or 4 ice cubes into the dish. this will create the same steaming effect that occurs in the covered pot.

speaking of coconuts

i just wanted to introduce you to the Sri Lankan way of handling coconuts. when i lived in Sri Lanka, coconuts were a major staple in my life (who am i kidding, they still are). besides the fact that our house was completely surrounded by coconut trees, we had an entire room in our kitchen that was dedicated to coconuts. it was literally called 'the coconut room.' in fact, we still call it that even though it is now filled with piles of old books that belonged to my beloved late grandfather.

anyway, coconuts would either fall or be plucked by our gardener from high atop the skinny, disproportioned trees that lined our gardens and then, their husks would be furiously pulled off by hitting them against some sort of sharp, metal rake-like instrument that was anchored into the ground. (i remember sitting on a bench in our expansive garden one day when i was little when i heard a large thud on the ground beside me. i looked down, and there was a perfect coconut just sitting there, waiting to be consumed. i picked it up and carried it into the house to show my parents. said parents, scared that i could have been hit by the falling coconut, proceeded to get mad at me for sitting under a coconut tree. this was silly - the garden is housed under a canopy of coconut trees and there is no real way to avoid them. this, however, did not deter my parents from yelling at me.) the de-husked coconuts would be placed in their designated room until it was time to use them. and then they were cut open, like this:

to get the succulent white meat out, we would use a fancy scraping tool, like this:

clearly, my house in canada is not surrounded by coconut trees and therefore, we don't really have the need for a coconut room, but every once in a while, we will go to Longo's and pick up a cute little coconut. we either use the meat just as it is:

or we extract coconut milk from it by soaking it in hot water and then squeezing it out. i'm not really sure how anyone else goes about scraping coconut. i honestly can't think of any other logical way to do it. and there really is no substitute for freshly grated coconut; it's so rich and plump and perfect and dried coconut just pales in comparison. i don't know what Sri Lankan food would be without the coconut. it is in virtually all of my favourite foods, in a variety of different forms from coconut oil to coconut vinegar to coconut milk. among my favourites: pani pol - thin, crepe-like pancakes filled with a mixture of fresh coconut and palm treacle; pol sambol - any combination of fresh coconut, salt, lime and fresh chilies (green chilies are my favourite); and kalu dodol - an interesting Sri Lankan sweet made with coconut milk, hakuru and cashew nuts. coconuts are just everywhere in Sri Lanka. we even use them as a conditioner for our hair and we use coconut husks for hanging orchids and other plants. so now you know a little bit about the life of a coconut in a Sri Lankan household. just in case you were ever wondering ;)

experiment: coconut flour

one of my favourite places to shop is Bulk Barn (or any bulk food store). i love wandering through the aisles and gazing into the big, clear, plastic bins that are filled with luxurious mountains of chocolates, nuts, grains, cereals, candies. it's so much fun to just be able to see these things as they are with no boxes and no fancy labels, just the innocent little ingredients, dressed down and fully exposed. i love the smell too; somehow it brings back memories from my childhood, and i'm literally like a kid in a candy store there. bulk stores are a baker's dream. they are stocked with all of the hard to find, rare ingredients that pop up from time to time in recipes for fancy pastries and desserts. and honestly, there is something about being able to buy something in any quantity you like that is really appealing to me. see, you don't have to commit to anything at Bulk Barn. i don't like committing to things.

anyway, you are probaby wondering, why the opinion piece about Bulk Barn, right? well, i'm getting to my point. while perusing the aisles like a kid in a candy store one day, i stumbled across a bin filled with coconut flour. i read the label and was immediately intrigued. in Sri Lanka, we love our coconuts and we eat them in just about any form we can, but coconut flour? i had never seen this before. the flour itself looked inconspicuous. it was beige. almost the colour of soft whole wheat flour. i read the ingredients: pure coconut meat. i stared at the dusty, pillowy pile in wonder. if all it is is coconut meat, then surely it should smell just like pure coconut. so i opened the bin and scooped up a bit. the aroma was divine. i knew that i had to buy some. i checked the label and the price was right (77 cents for 100g!) so i put some into a bag and proceeded down the aisles. i rushed home to tell my mom and sister about my amazing find. have you heard of coconut flour? i asked them. they hadn't. i was excited, i was enthusiastic, i was...confused. what does one do with coconut flour? after some research i discovered that coconut flour is a much loved ingredient among celiac disease sufferers and low-carb dieters alike. coconut meat is dried and its oil is extracted. the fibre that remains is then ground into a very fine powder. the flour is (obviously) gluten free and is etremely high in dietary fibre but low in carbohydrates (apparently) and since the coconut meat is defatted before it is dried, the amount of fat that remains in the flour is minimal. and for those of you who care about this sort of thing, the calories in coconut flour are pretty on par with those in regular, all purpose flour.

so, time for the experiment. my sister was not feeling well and needed some TLC, and my aunt, pregnant cousin and niece were scheduled to come and spend the day at our house on the weekend. to be honest, i had started concocting some ideas for recipes when i was still waiting in line to pay for my goods, and while it would have been fun trying to use some of this indulgent flour in a cool bread recipe, i was still just beginning my slow journey back to bread baking after a very traumatic experience. the label at Bulk Barn provided a recipe for some cinnamon sugar cookies, and that seemed like a fantastic first experiment for a sunny, "get well soon," family-filled weekend.

Cinnamon-Sugar Coconut Cookies (recipe courtesy of Bulk Barn)

3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup butter, melted
4 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup coconut flour
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt

preheat oven to 375 degrees (F). combine butter, eggs, sugar (reserving 1 tablespoon) and vanilla. mix until well combined. add coconut flour. stir until smooth. let mixture sit for 5 minutes until it becomes thick. comibe cinnamon and sugar in a small bowl. form dough into 1 1/2 inch balls and roll in cinnamon-sugar. place cookies on a greased or parchment lined baking sheet about 1 inch apart. flatten cookies slightly with the back of a spoon. bake for about 15 minutes. makes 24 cookies.

i debated only making a half recipe in case people didn't like the cookies, but luckily, i made the whole thing. the cookies were devoured. they are incredibly soft and airy and the coconut flour gives them a unique, nutty flavour. if you look closely at the flour, you can tell that there are little coconut fibres throughout it and it has a distinct, gritty texture. the dough never really becomes hard enough to handle easily. forming the balls and rolling them in the sugar was certainly a messy task, but it was definitely worth it.

i don't think that coconut flour would be a good substitute in any bread recipe, but i would imagine that it would do well in any kind of bar or cookie. it might also work in a cake recipe but i would probably combine it with regular flour if i was going to use it. all in all, coconut flour = awesome new find. i still have some left and i'm already dreaming of what the next experiment will be.

what's for lunch? roasted (your favourite) squash soup with cumin and coriander

i don't think that i could make it through the winter without squash. on those long, cold days when the sun doesn't have the strength to peek through the clouds for even a moment, when the ground is so terribly cold that it starts to develop tiny cracks, when the air is so frigid and piercing that after only a second outside your whole face starts to freeze, there is nothing more comforting then a big pan of roasted squash, orange and vibrant and caramelized.

it is funny that i am writing this on the first day of spring, but in a way, it's very fitting. i honestly don't know how i would have gotten through these past few months without the help from my friends - butternut, hubbard, spaghetti and acorn squash. they have been particularly helpful on those impossible monday mornings when i have to find something to take to the office for lunch.

when my usual big salad with corn, tuna and basil-infused walnut oil just won't cut it, i whip up a big batch of roasted squash soup with cumin and coriander (dried, not fresh - i hate fresh coriander). it lasts for a few days and is a great pick me up in the middle of the day when it's bone-chillingly cold outside. roasting a handful of garlic cloves along with the squash is always a good idea too!

Roasted Squash Soup with Cumin and Coriander

2 cups seeded, peeled and cubed squash (butternut, hubbard and acorn work best)
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
4 cups vegetable broth
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
salt and pepper to taste

2 teaspoons olive oil

pre-heat oven to 425 degrees (F). toss squash with 1 teaspoon of oil; season with salt and pepper. spread evenly on a cookie sheet and bake until squash is golden and tender, about 40 minutes. meanwhile, heat remaining oil over medium-high heat in a large pot. add chopped onion, vegetables and garlic. sautee until tender, about 6 minutes. season with salt and pepper.

add broth. cover with a lid and bring to a boil. reduce heat and simmer, covered, another 10 minutes. add roasted squash to the soup and stir in cumin and coriander (my measurements are just estimates - you can add as much or as little as you like). remove soup from heat and let stand for about 5 minutes. puree soup with an immersion blender and blend until smooth. season with additional salt and pepper to taste.

the cure for a rainy day: apricot walnut loaf

sundays are for baking, they really, truly are. rainy sundays are especially suited to tying on an apron and heating up the oven. there is nothing more uplifting than the smell of something yummy and wonderful baking on a damp, cold day. i love being inside and cooking and eating when it's gross outside. i love it. in fact, i have a great fantasy where i'm in Ireland in some really green, cliffy area and it's cold and misty outside and i'm inside in a big, rustic, stone kitchen wearing a big sweater, sitting at a table in front of a fire and eating a thick bowl of stew with a crusty piece of bread on the side. it's a pretty vivid fantasy that i am 110% sure i will live out one day.

this past sunday started out wonderfully. i had a great run by the lake and then went on a nice long drive with my parents. but then the clouds came, followed by the rain and some really lousy weather. it was obvious that i would need to bake something to balance out the drearyness, so i thought, what better way to weather the storm than with an orange, apricot and walnut loaf.

Apricot Walnut Loaf (recipe courtesy of Close-Up on Cakes)

1 1/2 cups dried apricots
1 cup water
2 cups nutri-blend flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
2/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
3/4 cup walnut pieces, finely chopped
1/3 cup orange juice
1 egg
1/4 cup butter, melted

preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. butter a 4 1/2 by 9-inch loaf pan and line with parchment or waxed (greaseproof) paper.

place the dried apricots and water in a saucepan. bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes, or until the apricots are tender. drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the liquid. cool the apricots and roughly chop. sift the flour and baking soda together into a bowl. add the sugar, orange zest, walnuts, and apricots.

in a separate bowl, beat together the orange juice, egg, melted butter, and reserved apricot liquid. add to the dry ingredients and mix well. spoon the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for 50-60 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean. let cool in the pan for 5 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack to cool completely.

weekend baking...sundried tomato, onion and olive foccacia

for many chefs, there is one food, one recipe, one ingredient even, that constantly causes them grief - one thing that they repeatedly attempt to make but that never seems to work out just right. for some, creating a perfect, flaky pie crust is that thing - hours are spent cutting cold butter into white flour, adding a touch of salt or a touch of cornstarch in pursuit of a crust that is forgiving yet durable, tender yet sturdy, but to no avail. for others, the perfect tomato sauce is the ultimate nemesis. chefs experiment with fresh tomatoes, canned whole tomatoes, crushed tomatoes, green tomatoes, forever searching for the right combination of acidity and subtle sweetness, of tang and mellowness. for me, it appears as though that holy grail is a good loaf of bread (hence the title of my first post).

in december i decided that the appropriate thing to do on new year's day was to bake bread. in sri lankan tradition, we always make kiribath, or milk-rice on the first day of the year or the first day of a new endeavour (i.e. a new house, a new job etc). kiribath is one of my favourite things to eat, ever. it's basically a really thick rice pudding made with any kind of short grain rice and coconut milk. you can either eat it as a sweet thing (with hakuru - palm treacle that has been solidified into a really heavy rock of dark, intense sweetness), or as a savory thing (with lunu miris: red onion, lime and chili). anyway, we always make kiribath on new year's day but this year i wanted to add to the fesitivies by baking a loaf (or two) of bread. i followed a basic recipe from Good Housekeeping; both loaves turned out wonderfully and were gone in a matter of days. they were so successful, in fact, that i continued my bread baking adventures by making a black olive focaccia bread after being inspired by an episode of Chef at Home in which one of my favourite chefs, Michael Smith, made the crunchy, airy loaf for his family. my black olive foccacia was a huge success and i was so thrilled with the outcome that i was ready to proclaim myself a master bread baker.

i was invigorated by my string of successful attempts in january. bread, it seemed, was something that was easy for me. i even made brioche, which is one of the most difficult breads to make! surely i wasn't wrong to think that i was approaching pro-bread baker status. i had a gift, a natural gift at bread making. it wouldn't be long until people would hear about my bread baking prowess and comission various loaves from me week after week after week. i decided to prepare for the imminent onslaught of bread demands by expanding my repetoire and trying out some new recipes. i set out to make a really dense, healthy bread one weekend. i had done the simple white loaf; i had made a fancy artisinal foccacia; i had conquered the buttery-sweet and oh-so-French brioche. this was the inevitable next step. i was so excited shopping for ingredients - i bought dark rye flakes, sunflower seeds and hard whole wheat flour, thinking i was going to create a crusty, hearty loaf for my family to enjoy with some home made soup over the weekend. i awoke early on a saturday morning to activate the yeast, dissolving it in lukewarm water and feeding it a teaspoon of sugar. everything was going well. bubbles were forming, the mixture was foamy. i happily added the rye flakes, which i had taken the time to toast slowly in a pan over low heat. i sprinkled in some salt, a few handfuls of sunflower seeds. things were great. and then i dumped in the whole wheat flour. and i knew it was a mistake, i really did. whole wheat flour is fantastic, but it's heavy and hard and it doesn't rise easily. as soon as i added it, the dough became stiff, almost immoveable. i struggled to knead the crumbly, heavy dough in vain, determined not to let the good ingredients go to waste. i placed it in a well-oiled bowl and set it in a warm place to rise, even though i knew it was going to be a disappointment. when i checked on it a few hours later it had gone nowhere fast. it certainly smelled wonderful and it had all of the components of a great loaf, it seemed. i even baked it, but it turned out to be so salty and dense that i decided not to subject my family to it and threw it in the compost.

i was dejected. my confidence as a bread baker deflated, i resigned myself to a lifetime of yeast-free baking, vowing that i just didn't have what it took to make bread. i spent the next few weeks peering longingly into bakeries at the rows and rows of light, airy loaves, happily sitting on the shelves. i read all that i could about bread baking, wondering if i could ever again bring myself to venture back to the world of rising and kneading, of time and patience. i wanted to try again, i really did, but my fear convinced me that i should give up my quest to become a master bread baker, at least temporarily. and then one day, i recalled a recipe from Michael Smith. i remembered an episode of his show in which he baked a loaf of bread in a covered pot in his oven. (side note: i really like Michael Smith because he doesn't just cook; he takes the time to really explain the science behind his recipes and i've learned a great deal from him). i went to his website and found a recipe for a no-knead bread dough. now, soon i will write a separate entry about this recipe, but let me just say that it restored my faith in my bread baking skills. the recipe was effortless and the bread that resulted from my first attempt at making it was honestly one of the best loaves i've ever tasted. this all brings me to the point of this post, really. i am slowly making my way back to the world of bread - i even made a really great homemade pizza crust! and this weekend i had the confidence to make another loaf of foccacia. the bread is still being consumed as we speak and it's been a great treat to devour over the past few cold, rainy days. this recipe is from none other than Michael Smith but i've adapted it a bit (Michael Smith's slogan is "the best recipe is cooking without a recipe" so i've really taken that to heart). enjoy...

Sundried Tomato, Onion and Olive Foccacia (adapted from Chef Michael Smith)

1 cup warm water2 teaspoons yeast
2 cups nutri-blend flour*

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoons olive oil

Coarse sea salt and pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 cup chopped, pitted olives (any kind will do)

1/3 cup chopped, oil-packed sundried tomatoes (drained)

1/2 small yellow onion

finely chop the onion and sautee until tender. add sundried tomatoes and onions and stir to combine. pour the water into a large bowl and sprinkle in the yeast. add 1 cup of the flour and the sugar then stir to combine. let rest for ten minutes or so, until the yeast activates and bubbles appear on surface. add the rest of the flour, salt, olive oil, pepper, thyme and olives and mix well until dough begins to form a ball. continue kneading for a few minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. place in a large, oiled bowl, cover with a towel, and rest in a warm place until the dough doubles, about 1 hour.

lightly oil your hands then knock down the dough, pressing the air out of it. knead a few times and then place dough onto an oiled baking sheet. pull and press dough across pan until if forms a large, flattened circle and vigorously poke dimples into it with your fingertips. drizzle with olive oil, coarse salt and pepper and let rise a second time until it doubles again, about 30 minutes. while you wait preheat your oven to 450 degrees. place in oven and bake until it has formed a golden crust, but is still soft in the centre, about 40 minutes.

as always, the more time you give the dough to rest, the more intense the flavour will be.

*nutri-blend flour by Robin Hood is really great. all it is is all-purpose flour with added wheat bran and you can substitute it cup for cup with virtually any flour. it doesn't alter the taste at all and it really boosts the fibre content. i use it all the time.

birthdays...almond cake with almond butter cream

when people ask me if i will make a cake for their birthday (or any other occasion), they always feel as though they are asking some huge favour and like they really owe me for agreeing. it's as though they think they are causing me some sort of inconvenience and that they're really asking a lot. oh, if they only knew how eagerly i wait for their requests and how excited i get as i plan and prep for the big day. honestly, it's what i live for.

this past weekend was my dear friend anu's birthday. she fell in love with my last birthday cake (actually, she called it her dream cake) and asked if i would make the same one for her. i had a tea party to celebrate my birthday last december and an almond-based cake somehow seemed like the natural fit for a party that celebrated both myself, and my favourite beverage. i absolutely love almonds, frangipane, marzipan or any other dessert/pastry that uses almonds in some way. i found a great recipe for a Dotted Swiss Almond Cake in my Good Housekeeping Great Baking Cookbook but it called for raspberry jam which didn't really appeal to me. i love jam; i love making jam, but i think that jam should be reserved for english muffins, crumpets and toast, so that it can soak into the little nooks and crevices and be appreciated for all its sweet-tartness. it also works well in rugelach (a common treat in my kitchen because my dad loves them). anyway, jam just seems wrong in a cake so i nixed i. i also nixed the almond paste that this recipe called for. i did some reading on almond paste and it seems like a great ingredient. it's very similar to marzipan only it's not at sweet. it is made with ground almonds, sugar, corn syrup and a small amount of oil. i happened to have some ground almonds sitting in my cupboard (leftover from one of my almond-clementine cakes) and i wondered if i could make a substitution. i'm sure the almond paste would have been fine and maybe one day i will try it. however, as far as i can tell, the right combination of ground almonds, white sugar, egg whites and almond extract can create a pretty good substitute for almond paste and i didn't want to search for another ingredient, so i improvised.

the result was a smash hit. i thought the cake was amazing, and my friends and family agreed. it was so amazing, in fact, that i decided to make a variation of this for my mom's birthday last month - hazelnut cake with Frangelico and chocolate buttercream. i roasted raw hazelnuts, ground them and added subtle splashes of hazelnut liquer to the cake batter and to the icing. yes, it was as good as it sounds. maybe even better. the hazelnuts developed a really rich, buttery flavour as they roasted and the cake was incredibly moist and dense. actually, it tasted like a Ferrero Rocher. it was basically a Ferrero Rocher disguised as a cake. i'm not making this up. i wouldn't lie about something like this. anyway, i digress...

the operation: replicate, or improve on, my birthday cake for anu's fabulous 29th birthday party. the results: well, see for yourself!

butter +sugar + ground almonds = heaven

the actual cake is very delicate so you have to handle it with care. it almost has a bread like consistency; it's not too sweet so it is the perfect base for the angelically sugary frosting.

as the icing soaks into the cake, the cake takes on a really dense, rich consistency that is very similar to marzipan.

Anu's Dream Almond Cake with Almond Butter Cream (adapted from Good Housekeeping: Great Baking)

*almond butter cream

1 1/2 cup(s) sugar
5 large egg whites
1 tablespoon(s) vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract
1 1/4 cup(s) milk
2 1/2 cup(s) all-purpose flour
2 1/2 teaspoon(s) baking powder
1/2 teaspoon(s) salt
1/2 cup(s) butter, softened
8 ounces ground almonds

preheat oven to 350 degrees F. grease two 8-inch round baking pans. line bottoms with waxed paper, grease paper. dust pans with flour. in medium bowl, mix flour, baking powder, and salt, set aside.

in large bowl, with mixer at low speed, beat butter, ground almonds, and sugar until blended, about 2 to 3 minutes, scraping bowl often with rubber spatula. increase speed to medium, beat until well mixed, about 2 minutes, scraping bowl often (mixture may look crumbly). resist the urge to eat this heavenly concoction. instead, gradually beat in egg whites, almond extract and vanilla, just until blended.

with mixer at low speed, alternately add flour mixture and milk to almond mixture, starting and ending with flour, beat until just mixed. pour batter into pans. bake 35 minutes or until toothpick inserted in centers of cakes comes out clean. cool layers in pans on wire racks 10 minutes. with spatula, loosen layers from sides of pans, invert onto wire racks to cool completely.

here's the tricky bit - i don't use a recipe for my icing. i basically just mix about 1/2 cup of softened butter with as much icing sugar and milk as it takes to create a nice, spreadable icing consistency. so....yeah, mix about 1/2 cup of butter with, i'd say, 4 cups of sifted icing sugar, 3 tablespoons of milk and 1/2 a teaspoon of pure almond extract. note: this is why i call it 'butter cream' instead of buttercream. i recognize that my version is anything but the luscious blend of butter, egg whites and sugar which constitutes traditional buttercream - not to mention that my version requires less than half the work.

with serrated knife, cut each cake layer horizontally in half. place bottom half of 1 layer, cut side up, on cake plate and spread some icing on top. repeat layering 2 times, ending with a cake. cover the entire cake with the rest of the icing and then decorate to your heart's content :o)

it was divine.